Well alright....I'm probably going to be taking this sucker in for it Friday but just for the hell of it I wanna see if anyone has any ideas what's going on. I have a 1998 VW Cabrio. We took it out of storage (meaning it was in the garage all winter) and the battery had died. No biggie. When the battery was changed I remembered I needed a passcode for my radio. Alas I had lost it. So I took it the dealership and they said they could take the number off the back of the radio and match it online with my car's number and it will give us the passcode for the radio. Well they did that...and the code that was given was wrong. I'm the second owner of this car the guy before me said he had the code changed at a dealership before I bought it from him. Does anyone have any clue about this? Maybe the website they checked hadn't updated the new code or something? *shrugs* it's no big emergency (although riding in this beautiful weather with the top down and no radio kinda blows) I was just wondering if anyone had any clue about it :)
Anyone know how to pop the hood on an 00 mustang (v6) that's decided to seize up completely? The lever will not pull even if someone pushes on the hood to relieve the tension. I fear it's going to have to go back to the dealer - I'm very very due on my oilchange.
Ya know I tried contacting him (well his go-between guy) about 2 weeks after I bought the car to get something from him and he never responded back. And he seemed like I was bothering him. But that is a good idea...if I leave it at the dealership this next time and they can't figure it out I might contact him...or even better go to the dealership he went to (even though it's a long drive) and see if they have it in their records.
Could try going up from under the grille and get a hold of the release cable, things might have siezed in the cable sheath. Failing that, if you can get close enough, spray the hell out of it with some penetrating oil, WD40, and/or white grease to loosen things up. Worst case: take the grill off and go at it with a hammer. ;)
Yours fall off? If not, you should be able to just crawl under and take a look. I'd be willing to bet it's a weld-on, but you never know, in 16 years someone might have done something to the exhaust. If it did fall off, don't worry, just slap one on and let 'er rip.
I drive a '70 Nova and while driving around 3 weeks ago the fuel gage just topped out (past full). Since then I have pulled the gas tank off, the floater is not stuck and appears to be fully functional. I have re-grounded the ground wire coming out of the tank. I have also remove the gage, twice, moved the needle down and as soon as I turned the key over it went right back up past the full mark.
So does anyone have any ideas as to what may be wrong and/or how to fix it?
actually there should be an alternative release for it. Cables break all the time, and it shouldn't take hacking up a car to release the hood. In most cases, you should see a place to stick an allen key to release the lock and then use the handle like normal, but then again this is a ford...best of luck
I have a 2000 Honda Civic DX. Now...the gas cap was broken. No biggie, I replaced that. But, because there wasn't a proper seal the check engine light came on. Will I have to take it to a garage to get that turned off or is there something I can do? I checked the owners manual and tried what it said. Turn the car on three times and let it run for 20 min and it should turn off, but that didn't work. Any help would be much appreciated.
Well, all the dealer's going to do is sell you a proper cap with a proper seal, so you should just look around for an aftermarket cap that fits, it'll be way cheaper than the genuine honda parts you'll be getting from the dealer.
Oh, I got a cap awhile back. I just didn't think that I had tightened it properly and thats why the light came on. I just read that taking the battery fuse out it resets the light. So I just did that and then it came back on. So what it might be now is an Oxygen sensor. Any other ideas what it could be?
Well, as you said, the improper seal from the new cap is most likely what's causing the check engine light to come on, nothing more complicated than that. I always try the easiest, cheapest thing first, and in your case, a new cap with a proper seal would cover that nicely. Absolute cheapest way to go would be to put your cap in a plastic bag before screwing it into place to seal it off. If it does the trick, you have you answer, and if not, you've ruled one thing out, all for the price of a plastic bag.
My '86 Tercel has an issue with 'dieseling' after I kill the ignition, especially in hot weather. It's a carbeurated 4-cylinder, and I use premium (91 in Oregon) as that's been the consensus for longest life among my mechanically-inclined compatriots.
Here's what I've found, as applicable to carb cars:
d.) Run-on valve defective or out of adjustment. This function does not apply to an MGA, but is included here as a guide to other models. The function of this part is to completely shut off all fuel to the engine when you turn off the ignition. On a carbureted engine you may otherwise find a run-on solenoid. The function of this part is to completely shut off the air intake at the carb when you turn off the ignition. If either of these devices is out of whack, fuel/air mixture can get into the engine after shut-down, causing run-on.
e.) Hot spots in the combustion chamber. Any carbureted engine having neither of the above mentioned devices will continue to draw in fuel/air after shut-down. Any hot spot inside the combustion chamber can ignite the fuel causing run-on. Right off hand I can think of at least three sources of hot spots.
1.) Spark plugs of the wrong temperature range can run red hot at the tip. This can also lead to premature failure of the ceramic insulator near the tip of the plug. Check the service books for the correct spark plug number.
2.) Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. The carbon deposits have a rough and irregular surface with many small cracks and edges exposed at the surface. Carbon deposits are also a poor heat conductor. The combined effect is extremely hot bits of carbon which can ignite the fuel after shut-down. For especially heavy deposits, the only solution is removal of the cylinder head and physically scraping away the deposits.
In milder cases, I have known of limited success with the use of "mouse oil". This is a generic term applied to anything liquid that costs two cents to bottle and sells for more than a dollar. (STP Gas Treatment and Marvel Mystery Oil may fall into this category). The primary ingredients are often nothing more than kerosene, lacquer thinner, and the like. It is often called "upper cylinder cleaner". Instructions for use may call for pouring the stuff down the carburetor at fast idle with a hot engine, pouring in the entire container full at a slow trickle over a period of five minutes or so. This usually causes a lot of smoking from the rich mixture, and sometimes pinging from pre-ignition. While the pinging is OK for this short procedure, don't pour the stuff in so fast as to cause detonation (severely loud pinging), as this can damage the engine.
You may also add this stuff to your gas tank. The results here are not so obvious and definitely not immediate, but in long haul it MIGHT clean you engine inside (no guarantee) or may be intended to help keep it clean. Personally I think this type of application is more effective a cleaning the parts in contact with liquid fuel, such as fuel jets in a carburetor and fuel injector nozzles. Many of these compounds are already included in certain brands of detergent gasoline, so you may be wasting your money here by duplicating the additive.
3.) Sharp edges on metal parts in the combustion chamber. These sharp corners can get red hot while the engine is running because of poor heat dissipation. The hot edges can ignite the fuel after shut-down. These sharp edges also have a few sources.
On an older engine, when valves are severely burned they can develop cracks or sharp edges. If an engine shop does a "cost sensitive" valve job, they may reinstall valves that have been ground too far, exposing sharp edges on the outside of the valve heads. These sharp edges on valves are a definite no-no! Do not attempt this false economy. Replace any valve with a thin edge.
When doing a valve job, it is common to resurface the head (milling or surface grinding) to assure a flat surface for the head gasket to seal against. This will definitely leave sharp edges at all vertical surfaces. You want to remove these sharp corners with a hand grinder, producing a small bevel or preferably a rounded corner.
Many cylinder heads come from the factory with built-in sharp edges in the form of
Actually, thinking about it a little bit more, I can't think of why it would even matter if you're not looking to replace it with a stock muffler. Probably, you can put what you line on and either bolt it or weld it on. I'm not an exhaust guy though, so I could be wrong.