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wee0622
Need Car Help? Ask HerePost any problems you have with your car and our team of experts (ranging from the ages of 12 to 41) will help you solve the problem
#1  Posted 9 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote  |  + 5 Funny
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PabloJeezy
In reply to BarnDoor, #6630:

I just prefer Jeep mainly cause if it's "American" attitude and its modular design for the doors and roof. And to be honest I haven't had the chance to take it wheeling cause I moved to Florida around November and haven't found a place to take it for a dirty spin.
#6,631  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
klurejr
In reply to BarnDoor, #6625:
In reply to klurejr, #6622:

Double post but who cares?

I seriously just finished that almost exact job a few hours ago on a 06 Wrx. Burg is probably seeing the photos on Facebook about now. I was able to source a oem Japanese bearing for $80 from my parts supplier. It went well but I figured out how to use a different tool than subaru intended. The bearing is almost identical to a Mercedes rear double roller bearing that I already had the badass little press set for. This job is no joke, if you don't have the right presses and patience it'll fight to the death. I noticed lateral play in the RR bearing during routine service. It never made noise though. When they make noise, that is usually accompanied by heat. That really makes it extra crucial to have the presses. I reused the wheel bearing seals, but it made working the press extra delicate. Car alignment should be checked after job too. If he can get the whole assembly and swap it out without pressing it all apart, it'll save you the difference in labor of pressing apart the assembly and just replacing the bearing insert.


Thanks for the info. What are you thoughts about driving on it? I wont have the money to fix it for a bit, but I need the car when it rains to get to work.
#6,632  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
In reply to BarnDoor, #6630:

That's pretty bad insurance! I pay about $1000 a year for mine, but bear in mind I have to pay the "You're an irresponsible young guy who's going to street race your... 4X4 SUV with under 200HP..." price.

I run 89 and if I do a lot of 45-55 driving I can see 14 MPG, 70 MPH will burn the gas like you wouldn't beleive (or actually you might). It's really not a very good setup, 4 speed transmission and all that.
#6,633  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
BarnDoor Sponsor
In reply to klurejr, #6632:

It can get very worse very fast. You shouldn't drive it.
#6,634  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
jetsteam101 Sponsor
In reply to crazy4AWDs:
In reply to BarnDoor:

Just a friendly reminder that we do have a very nice and well stocked bar for your unlimited usage...
#6,635  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
NotABluetard
-Low coolant light
-Coolant level is fine
-Stereo will not power on anymore (might not be related)
-Rain water (not coolant or other important fluids) entering cabin and collecting in the floor, causing a lot of condensation

Any ideas?

Could be electrical? I'm not sure about the coolant light, though. Then again, my speedo did freak out a little bit at one point, though that only happened once.
#6,636  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to NotABluetard, #6636:

Honestly sounds like a heater core... would explain the low coolant (although not why it's not actually low) AND the condensation/water on the floor.

Also, what car?
#6,637  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
In reply to burgundy, #6637:

His McLaren F1 of course.
#6,638  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
Quick question, not meaning to interrupt the current issue; Last time I did my brakes I was running low on my funky red stuff (Disk Brake Quiet I think it's called) and had to use it sparingly.

Now anything but hard braking sends all the cats in the neighborhood a screeching.

I'll have to slap some more on there in a bit, but does anyone have any particular preference on which brake lube to use?
#6,639  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to crazy4AWDs, #6639:

Lube for the pins or behind the pad? To be honest, I have never used brake lube behind a pad and the only car I have had screeching problems on was my Cobalt, but it had racing pads on it which are inherently noisy.

For the pins I use anti-cease with copper in it. Very resistant to heat, water and the elements and we always have some in our garage so it's really handy. Use it on every bolt that I reinstall, too.
#6,640  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
BarnDoor Sponsor
In reply to crazy4AWDs, #6639:

I only use pads with a stainless/rubber backing plate, paired with a heavy liquid copper grease. I do not have comebacks. Cheap pads don't have these plates and will eventually make noise. Make sure you have something between the back of the brake pads and the brake caliper/piston.
#6,641  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
NotABluetard
In reply to burgundy, #6637:

'93 Grand Am.

I've had a heater core go once before, and this isn't that. The water comes in both the front and the back, and only when it rains.
#6,642  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
BarnDoor Sponsor
In reply to NotABluetard, #6642:

At work we put someone in the car while someone else runs water over the sunroof seals and door seals. Easy find.
#6,643  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to NotABluetard, #6642:

Hmm, do you have a sunroof? Big issue with my Cobalt was that debris would get in the drain tubes on the sunroof and it would flood into the cabin and flow down the A and C pillar til it got to the floor. Also, I would check all the weather stripping, especially around the windshield.
#6,644  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
NotABluetard
Nope, no sunroof. I think it's getting in through the doors.
#6,645  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to NotABluetard, #6645:

If that's the case, check the weather stripping and you could possibly adjust the nader pin to hold the door shut closer to the body...
#6,646  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
In reply to burgundy, #6640:

Behind the pads. Well actually between the pads and the shims, and then between the shims and piston. My pins got plenty of lube, but I might as well redo them while I'm at it.

In reply to BarnDoor, #6641:

Well they weren't Brembo pads or anything but the were fairly high end... for an SUV anyways. No stainless/ rubber plates (that I recall). But that's what shims are for.

I'll grease the suckers on my day off, but I'll look into some higher end pads next time and see if I can get some with nice back plates.
#6,647  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
jetsteam101 Sponsor
In reply to NotABluetard, #6636:

If you are having a low coolant light and level is fine, might be a stuck sensor switch. Find it (around the top of the radiator, methinks), pull it, and give it a wash, then reinstall it. While it's out, also do a resistance check (Ohms setting on a muti-meter) across the pins and see if it changes when you move the float. If it does, it's good and the problem is somewhere else. If it doesn't change any reading, go buy a new sensor.
#6,648  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to jetsteam101, #6648:

It is actually in the bottom of the coolant reservoir. And you may be on to something. Might be calcified if someone didn't use distilled water to dilute the coolant, or may have just went bad. In that case, I really wouldn't worry about it... what ever did they do before low coolant lights?!
#6,649  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
klurejr
In reply to crazy4AWDs, #6639:
Quick question, not meaning to interrupt the current issue; Last time I did my brakes I was running low on my funky red stuff (Disk Brake Quiet I think it's called) and had to use it sparingly.

Now anything but hard braking sends all the cats in the neighborhood a screeching.

I'll have to slap some more on there in a bit, but does anyone have any particular preference on which brake lube to use?


I have never once in my 20 years of changing brake pads used any sort of lube, and I have never had noise issues, this is across a number of different brand cars, pads and rotors. IMO that lube stuff is a scam. Brakes should only make noise when the pads are low enough for the screamers to engage.
#6,650  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
burgundy
In reply to klurejr, #6650:

You have most likely used ceramic compound pads all the time then... high ferrous pads can be kinda noisy, hence race pads and stuff. The brembos on the balt were noisy until they got heated up properly, which was usually never on the street.
#6,651  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
klurejr
In reply to burgundy, #6651:

The brembos on my STI never make noise.
#6,652  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
jetsteam101 Sponsor
In reply to burgundy, #6649:

Eh, I thought top because our trucks have it on top. Coolant drops just a little, every alarm goes off.
#6,653  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
In reply to klurejr, #6650:

Vibrations cause (metal) shim on (metal) pad rubbing action. Metal on metal causes noise.

It's a pretty nasty noise, lube isn't a scam, maybe you just haven't had a set up that needed it yet???
#6,654  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
On an unrelated note, I'm looking at a pretty nice deal on a big scooter. It has been sitting for years but it fired up just fine and ran around for a couple of minutes without a hitch.

Now come today It doesn't want to start.

I know bikes and cars are two different things but the concepts should be the same.

It's fuel injected by the way.

My thought is that it had some gas in the lines and things like that, and that was all fine. It burned through that and now its sipping from the tank. And like I said, It's been sitting for years, so what's in the tank is bad. And for whatever reason the gas in the lines was okay?

I'm not sure, anyways, anyone ideas as to what it would be? And I assume I'll just drain the gas and fill it with new, then just fire it until it burns thought the old junk?

#6,655  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
klurejr
In reply to crazy4AWDs, #6654:

I have personally done the pads on the following vehicles in my lifetime:
My own personal vehicles:
1990 Chevy S-10 4x4
1994 Chevy Cavalier
1998 Chevy S-10 2wd
2000 Daewoo wagon
2000 S-10 Blazer 4x4
2004 STI
2007 Chevy Colorado

Friends car:
2000 Subaru Impreza wagon

None of those cars ever had brake noise after i did a change of the pads with no lube.

Maybe it is because I have mostly owned Chevy products and they make better fitting calipers? I don't know. Just never had an issue. I still think it is a scam.
#6,656  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
crazy4AWDs
In reply to klurejr, #6656:

Not sure, I know that the brakes on my 4 Runner and similar gen Tacos are known for poor quality all around.

I also just came into having a Pontiac Vibe with (I suspect) the same problem, but their entire cars are known for being poor quality.

I've seen some mechanics swear by the stuff, and others say it's unnecessary. I've also heard that it's really only needed in older vehicles.

I couldn't tell you which is right but I picked some up at O'Reillys and will throw it on if the weather is good tomorrow. If it doesn't squeak anymore then that should settle it more or less.
#6,657  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
NotABluetard
New behavior discovered on the Low Coolant light:

As long as everything is turned off, the light stays off. I can usually turn on my headlights and it'll stay off, but if I use anything else (AC, Blinkers, Wipers, Brakes), it comes on. It usually goes back off immediately when I turn those things off.
#6,658  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
BarnDoor Sponsor
In reply to klurejr, #6656:

Cheap brake friction components make noise. Neither Subaru or brembo qualify as cheap. Most parts on oem subys are brembo, not just the STI. I use the badass WURTH DBQ220 copper brake grease on EVERY car that comes in my shop. I use it to keep shit from coming back. Brake dust causes pads to stick. That causes all kinds of lovely failures, not just noise. Fuck noise, comebacks cost me money. Use the grease, no problems. EVER. I don't think every vehicle needs it, but it is excellent insurance against noise and other common brake issues. Side note, I include that shit as part of a brake service, so scam is a harsh word in my world. Snakeoil would be sufficient. (If I sold it)
#6,659  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
klurejr
snakeoil it is then.
#6,660  Posted 2 years ago  |  Reply  |  Quote
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