Twelvestring FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

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from Houston, TX

  • Activity

    • Anti Gravity

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      so there's this competition at my home gym. harder climbs, more points. if you get it on your first try you get 200 bonus points for the climb. your score is the sum of your top 5 point values after 4 days of competition spread out over a month. in between comp days you're allowed to practice the climbs to rehearse the movement to help your odds.

      a perfect score would be doing the 5 hardest on your first shot. REALLY difficult. 10,100 points is perfect, but only possible on day 1 of 4 if you're a BAMF.

      2100+200=2300
      1800+200=2000
      1800+200=2000<-(that's mine so i'm not allowed to climb it)
      1700+200=1900<-(that's also mine so i'm not allowed to climb it either)
      1700+200=1900

      2100+2000+2000+1900+1900=10,100
      but that's not possible for me due to comp rules ='(

      I'm staff, and I set a lot of the climbs, and i climb hard, so there were a few stipulations on letting me join the competition:
      1) may not rehearse the climbs before competition
      2) only allowed one day to climb
      3) may not score points on climbs i put on the wall (about half the routes in my category, Advanced)

      well, yesterday was competition day and i pulled some serious stuff out. here's the point breakdown:
      -2100
      -1700+200=1900
      -1800+200=2000
      -1500+200=1700
      -1400+200=1600

      2100+1900+2000+1600+1700=9100
      so i'm currently tied for first with only one week left in the competition. the guy i'm tied with has scored on all of the hardest routes he can, but he didn't onsight anything. this means his score is likely to stay the same. and my only other likely competitor has to climb some REALLY hard stuff to make up for the point deficit

      side note, my score was OVER NINE THOUSAAAAAAAAAAND!!!!!!! bonus points to anyone who gets that joke.

    • I rode a Horse yseterday

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      for the first time in about 5 years and it was surprising for a few reasons. 1) i now hurt in muscles i forgot I owned =P 2) i really got used to it fast! it's like riding a bike, it just doesn't go away. 3) it was also a lot like riding a bike that's forgotten how to be ridden, because our horsey hasn't been ridden in 5 years either! but at the end of about an hour we'd remembered how to communicate with one another again, and all is well =) 4) kinda makes me not wanna leave mississippi... just a little

    • Tomorrow

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      Competition.

      ownage?


      ????

      fun times regardless!

    • Enchanted Rocking

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      trip report (Enchanted rock->Reimer'sRanch-> home):::

      awesome pictures here of dasha climbing, followed by one of the most amazing sunsets ever!!!
      s671.photobucket.com/albums/vv79/austinhowell6/Thanksgiving%2009/?albumview=slideshow

      had a great trip! two very successful days of climbing, as far as accomplishment spraying, here's the breakdown:

      Fear of Flying (5.10c)
      -trad send, 3 pieces of gear, 15-20ft of runout at the end... which is also the crux

      Texas Crude (5.10b)
      -trad send, on my second attempt, a year and a half after the first attempt

      Aquatic Anxiety (5.11a)
      -Toprope onsight
      -trad send on second attempt

      little feat (5.9)
      -trad onsight

      super cruiser (5.13a)
      -thrutching, flailing, french-freeing... terrible =P
      -i'd project it if i lived in austin, but i don't, so i just don't have time
      -i think i'll find myself a nice little 5.12c to project, shouldn't take but a couple trips.

      unnatural selection (5.11a)
      -sport onsight, clips on harness

      bolt talk (5.11a)
      -sport onsight, clips on harness
      -immediately after climbing unnatural selection

    • engineering sucks! =)

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      so... i finally admit it. engineering kinda sucks. not in that angsty "i hate my life and wish everything to change" sort of way... it just stopped being fun, and it took me awhile to admit it.

      so i've admitted it, nowwhat? well.. i think i'll get the degree anyway. electrical engieering's not so bad, i'm just a little unenthused about the prospect about being an over glorified highly compensated number cruncher for the rest of my life.

      i gotta get out there. away. somewhere, doesn't matter where. occasionally, randomly, and possibly extendedly.

      so what do i do? become one of those guys who guides others into the wilderness untill he's too old to get off the couch anymore, let alone off the ground? nah. become some sort of admistirator? own a climbing gym? nope.

      a friend of mine noticed i have a certain enthusiasm for teaching anyone anything i happen to know, so i think that's what i'll do. well well well.. what to teach i wonder? music? gets old fast. outdoorsy stuff? well, barked up that tree already, and i'd rather do my own adventuring than other people's.

      the plan now is to teach math and science at some high-school while working on my master's in electrical engineering (as soon as i get my Bachelor's in engineering...) then hopefully move on to become a professor. teaching at any formal institution of education, be it high school, college, whatever, has it's perks. namely preplanned spring, summer, winter, and fall adventure breaks ;)

    • Committed

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      decision made. i'm a climber, everything else is kindasorta on the backburner. music is set aside, cycling is set aside, and mountain biking is set aside. of course i'll continue my degree, everybody's gotta have a fall-back plan, because how many people really make it to pro-climber status? not many.

      i'm climbing .13b now, only 5% of climbers make it there. 14a is the 1% range, and not even all of those get sponsorships. and going pro takes waay more than just sponsorship.

      at the beginning of the spring i had just come back from injury, and immediately jumped back on .12c, then i started training. 6 weeks later i was solid at 5.12c, 6weeks later, i pulled 5.12d. 6 more weeks had a second 5.12d, and a 5.13a, and 6 weeks after that... Bullet Proof Roof. 5.13b on lead, the rest had been Toprope***.

      Now i'm starting another 6-week training cycle, and this time i've upped the dosage from 3 days a week of climbing, to 4 and i'm going harder than ever while i'm in the gym. who knows, 6 more weeks and maybe i'll climb 13c?

      the trouble is finding a 13c... the nearest ones are in Austin, Texas and the particular spot is 3 hours away from Houston (that's about where i am). and climbing at or near the maximum requires a lot of attempts to finally stick it... those other climbs took 6 weeks each to finally stick without falling.

      Now i'm training. i'm training hard, and i'm pushing my body to the limit. I have but a few chances to get outside and try hard climbs, and i'll have at most 6-10 attempts per weekend trip, instead of the dozens of attempts i can use on a gym climb over the course of weeks. so i have to train hard for the next level, very hard. i have to do it without falling within about 7 attempts from the first time i lay eyes on it.

      i think it's possible. hard, but possible. i have to train like a masochist in the climbing gym so i can make the most of the little time i have outdoors, and who knows, by this time next year... maybe i'll be climbing 5.14a. maybe i'll be climbing harder......


      the hardest sport climb in the world is 5.15b right now, established by chris sharma.
      this clip is sharma on a 5.14d, two letter grades easier:
      www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs



      ***lead is generally much harder than Toprope. the average climber can toprope a climb that's a couple grades harder than their maximum lead. but high-end climbers don't really care about Toprope ascents. at all. lead is king because leading is hard. leading involves risk of much farther falls.

    • Hardest in Houston

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      i just made the third ascent of what's possibly the hardest climb in Houston. the rock wall at my University is more fancy than the usual flat planes with texture and bolted stuff rock walls in most of the country, ours is textured like REAL ROCK!!! and the climb i did uses only that natural texture.

      also, much falling footage. enjoy:

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=txVzZVV2hos

      then starting this weekend, i'll be road-trippin in search of hard shiite to climb.

    • climbing and projects....

      9 years ago

      Twelvestring

      too many projects, but not enough... i've been climbing hard this training cycle, as i'm finally getting the hang of how to train in a climbing specific manner... Yoga, cycling to school (7mi each way 2x per week), and cranking out a 6-week training cycle on the wall have gotten me ready for some hard shiite.

      3-weeks of strength training (ie rock climbing with 40-55 lbs of weights hanging off me)
      2-weeks endurance training (laps on 5.12+ untill i can't hold my steering wheel)
      1-week of NOTHING... gotta rest somewhere eh?

      i'm down to one fall on the hardest climb i've done so far, the hardest climb at my university's rock gym (5.13b), and i just finished my first endurance week.... which means i'm completely thrashed... which means after my week of rest, i'm gonna NAIL IT TO THE WALL!!!! hopefully.

      anyway, i've been thinking "what next?" and haven't come up with that great of an answer... i set a ridiculous climb that goes down about 5.13c.. i think... all we know is it's f*king hard and i can't do it without flailing everywhere right now.

      but the nearest rock is a 2.5 hour drive, and I have to sneak over there without my parents finding out... or they'll flip out crazy on me. i wanna climb hard, and i love the difficulty of it, but i'm running out of difficulty here at home, and need to find a way to range out to the hard stuff on a regular basis (gas price is a problem too)...

      idunno... but i've got at least three weeks to figure it out.

      in the meantime, enjoy this video! it's one of the guys who did a LOT for climbing in texas, putting up first ascents and whatnot, and he's on another ridiculous climb which is about a 5.13a or 5.13b. the difference between his climb and mine, is that his is upside down with big holds, and mine is vertical with SHI-EEY holds.... same difficulty, but very different climbing experience.

      vodpod.com/watch/2046705-rock-climbing-thieving-texas-bastard-5-13-at-cub-cave-in-san-antonio-texas

  • About Me

  • Comments (250)

    • rwlagrone FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

      1 month ago

      We've seen each other through good times and bad. I'll miss you like crazy, and I'll catch you on the next adventure.


      Rest in peace, dude.

      https://www.chicagotribune.com/nation-world/ct-nw-illinois-north-carolina-free-rock-climb-death-20190701-wbuazkg33raxfcpq6p6fl4gsye-story.html?fbclid=IwAR3T7xHAoPSg8KcPDrKq4d-VVHDxU3rnVRGC8IlTgg9Lr5rGw8dDdTzWubE

    • Twelvestring FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

      9 years ago

      lol, very true! i'm having enough trouble affording the rest of my equipment! nevermind finding room in the suitcase, that was a premium on this trip!

    • frenchbum

      9 years ago

      Time for a helmet cam bro....but first you need a helmet =P

    • frenchbum

      9 years ago

      Hope You Have A Happy Holiday!!!!!!

    • F1uffyLizard

      10 years ago

      I'm all about Distortion,stoner metal is 98% Distortion and 2% skill

    • F1uffyLizard

      10 years ago

      I think Invaders would be perfect for a 7-string too

    • MakPhee

      10 years ago

      Thanks a lot for the advice. I've been looking at a Spider III amp for a few months and I've personally always loved it, but my guitar teacher and the music store staff say it's kind of like a toy amp, which I thought was kind of strange for them to say because when I asked them what they meant, they couldn't really back it up. It seems like it's really easy to find complicated effects and the fact that it's so user friendly might be confused with it being a toy. Anyway, thanks again.

    • MakPhee

      10 years ago

      What kind of amp do you use for live performances? I'm guessing a Marshall or Fender tube amp. I ask because I'm looking for an amp that's good enough quality for both recording and live performances which would be a long term purchase under $1000.

      Post edited 7/21/09 11:01AM

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      Taking a whipper on slab is the same thing in my mind as getting road rash from a motorcycle wreck. NOT FUN.

      the cheese grater analogy is good too.

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      yeah, I had to down-climb. which was actually kinda scetch because it was all slab w/ a small crimpy sloper every now and then. i do not like down-climbing... but it's better than than sliding/falling down slab and getting torn up.

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      it was just a draw, which is still annoying. I was leading a 5.7 (lame I know) and I was kinda tired. I got up to where I was 15-20 feet above the last bolt and I had to go over a lip to reach the next bolt. With coming back from an injury and being tired I wasn't sure I could pull the crux on the first try. It was one of those balancy moves (which my injury now makes difficult for me) and I didn't want to fall 30+ feet just for that one move. My partner was inexperienced and I didn't think she could carry me if I busted up my ankle again so I was just like, "better save it for next time when I'm fresh than get hurt again and not be able to climb for another 4 months"

      The worst part is that I know I can make that move, but in my condition at the time I couldn't. I was mentally prepared to tackle it (unlike previous times), but it was my body that held me back this time.

      tl;dr version: 5.7, left a draw, bolt positions made it too risky to try the crux because I was too tired from the rest of the day.

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      lead climbing... busts my balls. i have yet to complete a successful lead. I was forced to leave behind a piece of gear today :(

    • rwlagrone FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

      10 years ago

      With reference to the fbook thingy, we should go climbing or mountain biking (I know that I can't say that on facebook).

      Dragoncon is a nerd get together that should be insanely fun. I figure it would be like Akon^2. Or Akon^5...

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      a creepy assistant,


      I can do that!

      dead guitar parts,


      I can steal that! Hopefully, none of them will be abnormal. . .

    • rwlagrone FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

      10 years ago

      LOL dude. Yeah, I've seen your facebook statuses. Sounds like a badass design. Your going to have to show me what it's going to look like.

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      sad times indeed

    • MakPhee

      10 years ago

      The file (of those knife-hole-looking holes) doesn't exist.

    • MakPhee

      10 years ago

      Why, thank you. I'm going to see if I can make some extra money on clustershot.com.

    • MakPhee

      10 years ago

      lol. Seriously, though. It's a better name than Jackson Browne.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      Damn man, it sounds exactly like me.

      Musician,
      Comedian,
      Filmmaker,
      Lawyer then Politician (LOL WUT?!),

    • Twelvestring FIRST Member Star(s) Indication of membership status - One star is a FIRST member, two stars is Double Gold

      10 years ago

      omg, they have a full album? i thought that was just part of the joke!

      "believe me when i saaaaay, i FUCKED a mermaid!"

      and as far as a manager goes, useful ineed, but i'm poor. so for now i'm just widgeting thing out on my own by playing crazy-ass music, and letting raised eyebrows do the booking for me. over the next few months i'm going to be hitting pubs randomly that have live music, and inquiring just what it takes to get bookings. i've also got two on-campus small-ish events that i'll be partaking in (one artist among many).

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      ILU (and that song) so hard.

      My friends and I break out into I'm on a Boat at least four times a day. That whole album is fantastic.

    • Salohcin

      10 years ago

      well good, and yes that is what I was referencing, damn it now I have to listen to the song...and I was getting ready to go to bed too

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      They work I guess... no big pain. But, I was told they'd make me pretty loopy and that hasn't happened yet. I'm not going to lie... I'm a little disappointed. But hey, as long as a heal it's cool.

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      Yeah, I'm not sure why I didn't friend you like two months ago...

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      Ah ha.

      I'm considering a seagull twelve string. The cedar one interests me the most.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      Cool.

      Hey, don't you own a seagull guitar?

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      FadingLight did a hilarious one, you should check it out.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      Haha, "I win the whipper contest!" What?

    • badgerW

      10 years ago

      Ok, well, thanks for the understanding imparted. I grant that I was speaking from a position of ignorance (I had even forgotten that your fall happened while on belay). Still, that whole free soloing thing just freaks me out. Anyway, I know that you will have to work your way back up after your recovery. You will also re-evaluate your abilities and the risks that you are willing to take. I just hope that you do so conservatively.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      Here's the new H8 Bass from Hagstrom:

      www.hagstromguitars.com/news_hb8.html

      I like the look of the old one bettter:

      www.vintageguitars.org.uk/hag8.php

    • Phagyna

      10 years ago

      I just listened to Burn, really impressive. I love the slapping/tapping riff in there. Were you in an open tuning for that song or was it just standard?

    • tury

      10 years ago

      Are you using DADAAD tunning for Unanswerable questions?

    • badgerW

      10 years ago

      I know what you're saying, but time always gives a new perspective. I say, give every song a month after you've recorded it. Put it aside completely, don't play it again or listen to the recording; a month later, come back and listen to the recording.

      It might not help, but at the very least, it can't hurt. And of course keep writing new stuff all the time.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      I don't but it's local to me and I'm one of two employees, and I don't work there much anymore. He can't afford to pay me anymore.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      It's unfortunate because that's exactly the stuff we sell.

      The advantage to you is that you are helping feed a guy's family. I couldn't give you a great discount.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      It is Weird Al.

      When I was 11-12 I came into some money and bought almost his entire catalog.

    • tury

      10 years ago

      wonderful addition to your collection.


      link me good sir.

    • tury

      10 years ago

      Indeed, I used that approach for a while. back to Martin bronze.

    • tury

      10 years ago


      You mean the strings or the guitar?


      Well its a 18 +or- Old Yamaha Eterna dreadnought with Electric .09 strings on it. and a logitech simple pc microphone.

    • tury

      10 years ago

      I have a myspace with 2 year old recordings which I'm thinking of removing once I get a new microphone to record some new stuff including vocals.

      www.myspace.com/cartoonclassics23

      its mostly improv but I had to put something up so I wont forget.

      there's a coldplay song on the player too but thats for my regular myspace haha.

    • tury

      10 years ago

      you know whats funny? we're both musicians, we have albums or album ideas and we're both dating graphic designers that want to contribute. smiley7.gif

    • Salohcin

      10 years ago

      I catch stuff like that......I also have to keep my mouth shut when watching movies cause if I don't people will hate me cause I find discontinuities that most people would just overlook

    • LungieII

      10 years ago

      It was quite awesome. I love that music store. It's called the Trading Musician. Linky!

    • tury

      10 years ago

      sghd.gifsghd.gifsghd.gifsghd.gifsghd.gifsghd.gif

    • Cegonha

      10 years ago

      for real, they've got some other cool stuff on youtube as well

    • tury

      10 years ago

      You got out of it already?

    • Epstarr

      10 years ago

      According to my brother, they resemble me, except worse.

    • BobLablaw

      10 years ago

      It was totally ridiculous.

      The had the Asian lesbian cheerleader, just so that they could have "She Came In Through The Bathroom Window", and JoJo, Jimi Hendrix? Gimme a break.

    • Epstarr

      10 years ago

      I'm pretty laid back too, so I go in spurts. Something upsetting happens to me so I write alot. Then life is so/so and I don't write lyrics for months at a time.

      But you write music, so don't your melodies come from the same place your lyrics would come from?

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